Tennessee Valley California Hiking Adventure

Tennessee Valley Cove in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. 

When I’m looking for a quick escape from San Francisco, Yosemite, the Russian River, and the Napa Valley are close at hand.

But each of these options requires significant forethought. I wonder if will they be crowded with international tourists on a given weekend? Is there an incoming convention or a gigantic cruise ship in port? That could lock up available lodging and recreation.

Then, since like most San Franciscans I don’t own a car, I have to plan out the transit.

Which bus connects to which bus where?

Finally, do I have the money to truly enjoy these places?

The Tennessee Valley Trail as seen from Wolf Ridge.

My ideal solution to the getaway problem is the 76 bus. From Van Ness and Geary the 76 bus line will take me to the Marin Headlands and The Golden Gate National Recreation Area for the price of my daily commute to work.

A dramatic scene from the climb to Tennessee Point.

The United States Navy once based defensive operations for the Pacific in the Headlands. The buildings are still standing, converted into artist spaces, non-profit offices, history museums, and hostels.

The real treat for me is how much land is left untouched by development. I can hike a dozen miles of trail before seeing so much as a vehicle or a home.

Matt and I make our way to the Headlands on a sunny, blustery day with the goal of hiking the Tennessee Valley.

Matt buffeted by winds at Rodeo Beach. 

We start off at Rodeo Beach where a number of men with metal detectors are scanning the strand for treasure. Notable relics are said to wash up here.

A pair of parents with young children hikes up ahead of us to Tennessee Point. It’s an easy, physical hike… but we’re going all the way up the mountain.

Atop Fort Cronkhite, we explore the old ramparts and vacant magazines. We make our way to Wolf Ridge and the Tennessee Valley Trail. We find columbines, blue flax, monkey flower, California poppies, and white yarrow blanketing the scrubby hills.

California native plants L to R: blue flax and yellow monkey flower.

At Tennessee Valley cove, we enjoy the drama of the Pacific Ocean tides. Iron clotted cliffs bolt rust red into the sky. I’m so distracted by the landscape my boots get caught in the undertow and flood with seawater. Matt, too, is blissed out with endorphins and beauty.